Local foodie and fried-chicken enthusiast Megan Gordon dishes on her city’s best bets for down-home Southern fare.
People generally don’t equate spicy gumbo and sugar-dusted beignets with San Francisco. New Orleans, yes, but not the City by the Bay. But this epicurean tapestry of a town has a way of adopting flavors from all over the world. And lately, soul food has been having its day in the California sun. From Southern-inspired cocktails to fried okra to a lunch window featuring chicken and waffles, San Francisco kitchens are dishing up comforting fare reminiscent of a simpler time when butter and flour were daily staples—and bourbon flowed freely.
The Front Porch (Bernal Heights)
The Front Porch is quintessential San Francisco—imagine the quirkiness of a hipster hangout coupled with the coziness of Grandma’s kitchen. The menu, however, doesn’t blend genres. It’s stocked with simple, down-home comfort food done right. Chef Michael Law works magic on classic, cholesterolbe-damned dishes such as Mama Clara’s crispy fried chicken, chickenfried steak with chanterelle mushrooms and mill gravy, decadent mac ’n’ cheese, and collard greens with bacon. Wash it all down with Louisiana’s Abita beer, San Francisco’s own Speakeasy brew or a house cocktail (the Thunderbird, with ginger beer and bitters, is my favorite). Don’t be deterred by the prices at The Front Porch; portions are generous, and no matter what my intentions when I sit down, I always go home with leftovers. Regulars know to pop in early for the blues hour (5:30–7 p.m.) to savor great drink and appetizer specials while relaxing in rocking chairs and playing dominoes—just like at Grandma’s house.
Just For You (Dogpatch)
One of myfavorite ways to experience a city is to choose restaurants in neighborhoods I wouldn’t normally pass through. Such was the case when I visited Just For You in the up-and-coming Dogpatch neighborhood. Once gritty and industrial, the Dogpatch is now punctuated with outstanding dining options and art galleries. At first glance, owner Arienne Landry’s café looks like your typical greasy spoon, with booths lining the walls, a jukebox and kitschy décor. But at first bite it’s clear, Just for You is much more than that. Landry serves thoughtful Southern meals featuring housemade breads along with local produce, eggs and seafood. Although open for dinner a few nights a week, Just For You is the place to go for brunch. Landry has put herself on the San Francisco soul-food map with her Hatch green chili huevos rancheros and Creole crab cakes. I like to conjure up the spirit of the Big Easy by settling into one of the cozy booths on a foggy morning with a steaming cup of coffee and a plate of authentic, sweet beignets.
The Elite CafÉ (Pacific Heights)
This art-deco space opened in 1928 as the Lincoln Grill. For decades it was a Pac Heights’ hotspot known for its freeflowing drinks and succulent oysters. Since then, what is now Elite Café has evolved into a romantic venue for upscale American cuisine with distinctly Southern flavors. Much of the original design details have survived, so for the full experience, ask to sit in one of the original private mahogany booths. Can’t get a booth? Grab a seat at the bar and watch the bustle on Fillmore Street. While I could subsist for quite awhile solely on Elite Café’s buttery, flaky Meetinghouse biscuits, it would be a shame to miss out on the jambalaya, a heady concoction of shrimp, andouille sausage and duckconfit... oh, the jambalaya. One taste of the spicy, layered flavors and you’ll need a moment to collect yourself. For dessert, the Maker’s Mark pecan-pie tartlet with spiked whipped cream is the perfect little sweet to share in your candlelit booth.
Chicken ’n’ waffles: An unusual marriage How did these two items on opposite ends of the culinary spectrum end up on the same plate? According to some sources, Thomas Jefferson brought a waffle iron back from France in the 1790s; the cookbooks have been featuring the pairing ever since. In another version, Harlem’s Wells Supper Club, which used the slogan “Wells: Home of Chicken and Waffles, Since 1938,” claimed to have invented the pairing for its late-night menu simply due to timing: it was too late for dinner and too early for breakfast.
Little Skillet (SOMA )
Only in San Francisco will you find a farm-fresh, all-organic-soul-food lunch window specializing in chicken ’n’ waffles. This offshoot of Farmer Brown restaurant attracts the in-the-know lunch crowd for takeout boxes of crispy fried chicken, creamy stone-ground grits, angel biscuits and gravy, and red velvet cupcakes. And, they carry beverages you probably haven’t seen since you were a kid: Dublin Dr Pepper (the original Dr Pepper from Texas made with real cane sugar), Fitz’s cream sodas and Faygo grape soda. After ordering from the little blue-shuttered window, mosey across the street to the funky loading dock, pull up a milk crate and savor the best urban picnic this side of the Mississippi.
- “With all the choices we make every day, people don’t want to intellectualize food. The only thought you should be thinking about? Taking the next bite.” –Mitchell Rosenthal, Town Hall Restaurant
- “Soul food is more than just its ingredients. The best meals I’ve ever eaten were not in the fanciest dining rooms or luxurious hotels. They were the meals made from scratch by people that put all their heart and soul into each dish.” –Scott Youkilis, Maverick Restaurant
- “The attraction with soul food is that people know that they are going to be fed and fed well.” - Tony Hua, Hard Knox Cafe
Mission Pie (Mission)
The reasons to visit San Francisco’s vibrant Mission District are plentiful: sprawling murals celebrating Latino heritage, eclectic ethnic eateries, a lively—albeit a little bit gritty—nightlife and a benevolent little bakery called Mission Pie. Plum frangipane, walnut, mixed berry, banana cream and apple are just a few of the delicious flavors that might appear on their seasonal menu, which always features at least six daily pies, a lovely selection of baked goods and savory delights like quiche, chicken pot pie and galettes. And thanks to Mission Pie’s altruistic efforts, you can feel good about indulging—the shop’s owners are committed to environmental sustainability and give back to the community by offering job training to struggling youth. The best part? It’s a true neighborhood gathering spot. There’s a large communal table right in the center of the room, and locals and tourists rub elbows while sharing slices of old-fashioned pie smothered in housemade whipped cream—delish!
Cornbread with Aleppo Honey Butter
Courtesy of The Front Porch Restaurant
- CORNBREAD
- 2 cups cornmeal
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 tsp. salt
- 2 tbsp. baking powder
- ½ cup sugar
- ½ tsp. cayenne pepper
- 2 eggs
- 4 cups buttermilk
- 1 jalapeño (brunoise)
Mix all dry and wet ingredients separately. Fold the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients, being careful not to over mix. The Front Porch bakes the cornbread in cast-iron corn pone molds— shaped like, you guessed it, corn cobs— but you can use a greased cast-iron skillet if you prefer. Bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes or until golden brown. If baking in corn pone molds, the recipe will yield 25–30 pieces. If baking in a skillet or 8x8-inch pan, the recipe will yield 10–12 pieces.
- ALEPPO HONEY BUTTER
- 1 cup room-temperature butter
- 1 tsp. Aleppo pepper
- ¼ cup honey
- 1 pinch of salt
Mix all ingredients together. Using a pastry bag with a star tip, pipe the butter into a small serving dish. Or, simply scoop into a ramekin to serve.
Shrimp and Grits
Courtesy of The Front Porch Restaurant
- 30 peeled medium to large shrimp
- 10 button mushrooms sliced
- 2 sliced shallots
- 4 minced garlic cloves
- 1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
- 1 tbsp. Tabasco sauce
- 1 tbsp. lemon juice
- 1/8 cup white wine
- 2 tbsp. unsalted butter
- 2 slices of raw bacon (diced)
Take a large sauté pan, first adding 2 tablespoons of cooking oil, then adding the bacon. Let bacon brown slightly. Add Shrimp. Cook on both sides. Add shallots, garlic and mushrooms. Add wine, lemon juice, Worcestershire and Tabasco. Reduce liquid by half. Add butter at the end. Once butter is incorporated, pour shrimp over grits. We use Anson Mill Grits from South Carolina. Instant grits are a good substitute. Cheese is always a good addition to the grits. This yummy recipe serves six.
