The fad-filled past and bright future of the cuisine formerly known as fusion
When the idea of culinary fusion first hit the American dining scene in the 1970s, it had all the hallmarks of a passing trend: month-long waiting lists, larger-than-life personalities and a seemingly endless parade of imitators. Today, the term coined by mavericks like Wolfgang Puck is less often on the national tongue, but the ideal of blending flavors and cultures is more relevant than ever. Veteran taste-chaser Deborah Beaver takes us to the places where it’s done best—and gives us a peek into the future of the global plate.
Latin LoverAsia De Cuba | Los Angeles
Sharing space as it does with two other Angel City icons—the posh Mondrian Hotel and flashy Skybar—Asia de Cuba may seem comparatively sedate. But here, on what may be the quietest corner of Sunset Boulevard, this Latin-Asian legend continues to assert itself with a bold blend of compelling flavors.
Whether you dine in the warm, buttery interior or the arresting Phillipe Starckdesigned al fresco space, you’ll feel as if you’ve entered a parallel universe of California perfection—where the massive poolside terra-cotta pots are matched only by expanses of toned, tanned skin. Indeed, the Asia de Cuba experience is as much about aesthetics as it is taste.
But this is a favorite watering hole of the beautiful people, so the menu does live up to its promise. Signature dishes like Tunapica (picadillo-style tuna tartare with Spanish olives, blackcurrants and almonds, drizzled in a soy-lime vinaigrette) and Grilled Mojito-Glazed Strip Steak are guaranteed to linger in memory long after they’ve left the tongue. www.mondrianhotel.com
Grand ScaleShang | New York
In the city’s Lower East Side, on an obscure block dotted with shabby bars and bodegas, you’ll fi nd Toronto superchef Susur Lee’s fi rst Manhattan restaurant, Shang. Don’t bother looking for signs—there aren’t any. Lee’s latest venture may be tucked away inside the Thompson Hotel, but this monument to over-the-top opulence is anything but subtle.
Lee has been both praised and criticized for his cleverness in the kitchen, but it’s hard to say his Shang project lacks impact. Nearly everything here is on a grand scale, from the shiny red banquettes to the planet-sized lanterns, to (many would argue) the menu prices. But it’s exactly this kind of artistic departure you’re paying for, and Lee’s vision of “global Chinese” typically hits the mark.
There is, after all, only one place in the world serving innovations like Cantonese turnip cake—a concoction festooned with baby eggplant, shiitake mushrooms, black beans and crusted potato dim sum, all bathed in spicy Swatow chili sauce—alongside cocktails like El Diablo, a mad mixture of pomelo fruit and jalapeño-infused tequila. Still put off by the prices? Sneak in for the “starving artist” special: a three-course meal for just $35.00. www.shangnyc.com
Family StyleThe Slanted Door | San Francisco
In a city boasting more than 4,000 restaurants, it’s no small feat to stand out. Then again, Charles Phan isn’t your average tastemaker. After three years in the Department of Architecture at UC Berkeley, he returned to his fi rst love, food—and began laying the foundation for one of San Francisco’s most beloved family businesses.
Though Phan is ethnically Chinese, he was born and raised in Vietnam—a country whose cuisine is already a heady mélange of Asian and French. Add to this an obsession with continuous reinvention and fresh local ingredients, and it’s easy to see how The Slanted Door has become a favorite with even the most discerning gastronomes. So how does Phan continue to surprise (and delight) after decades in business? “I always tell my staff that this is like a Broadway play,” he says. “People pay you for tonight, not yesterday or what you did before.”
While fi rst-time visitors to the sleek Ferry Building space seem to favor the intimate waterside tables, the restaurant’s many return customers are just as happy to sit at the long communal tables in the center of the main dining room. After all, many of Phan’s specialties are best enjoyed family-style, from the refreshing grapefruit and jicama salad to the caramelized catfi sh claypot to the iconic shaking beef—which may just leave you quivering with joy. www.slanteddoor.com
Notable NewcomerTAG | Denver
Top Denver chef Troy Guard’s sustained success with past projects like Zengo, Ocean and nine75—all of them among Denver’s A-List eateries—has local foodies wondering where he’ll take them next. Enter TAG, Guard’s latest tasteful endeavor, slated to open May 18: a blend of sophisticated flavors from all over the world, anchored by good old-fashioned Western hospitality.
With a globe-trotting menu billed as “Continental Social Food,” TAG makes you feel as if you’ve just dropped in on a fabulous dinner party. Imagine the vibrancy of a hip Manhattan hangout, blended with the sincerity of a local diner. The warm, charming space takes up two levels in a 125-year old building, with an exposed wine library that rises 30 feet from floor to ceiling. Both the space (cozy and communal) and the plates (small and plentiful) encourage sharing in all senses of the word.
And, not surprisingly, there’s much worth sharing at TAG. Guard’s mercurial menu offers surprises like French onion soup dumplings and taco sushi—Indian bread filled with sushi rice and fresh seafood. “There might be three or four continents represented in one dish,” Troy says. “I have a thousand different ideas.” No doubt TAG’s clientele will savor them one by one. www.troyguard.com
Roasted Corn Madeleines with Lobster and Miso
Madeleines- 2 ears roasted corn with kernels cut off
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1/2 cup milk
- 2 eggs
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1/2 cup cornmeal
- 3 teaspoons flour
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1 pinch of salt
- 1 teaspoon butter (room temperature)
Preheat oven to 375˚. Brush butter into Madeleine mold. Blend together corn, cream and milk. Mix eggs and sugar until frothy (about 3 minutes). Add cornmeal, corn purée, baking powder, salt and flour. Mix well, then add remaining butter. Place in pastry bag and pipe into Madeleine molds. Bake 8–10 minutes.
Lobster With Miso Sauce- 1 lobster, cooked and shelled
- 2 teaspoons butter
- 1/4 cup miso paste
- 5 teaspoons sugar
- 5 teaspoons mirin (Japanese rice wine)
Place lobster in pan with butter and mix gently until covered. Whisk remaining ingredients together. Break lobster into pieces and place one piece on top of each cooked Madeleine. Top with a dollop of miso glaze. Serves 20.
Going Global In Denver
For a relatively small city, Denver has a surprising number of top-tier options for the global gastronome. The aforementioned Zengo (720-904-0965) mixes Latin and Asian flavors with flair in a funky, modern space just off Confluence Park. Izakaya Den (303-777-0691) on Old South Pearl lends monumental taste to small plates, taking the tapas concept to new heights—and taking the prize for Best Fusion Restaurant in 2008 and 2009 (Westword Denver). And Sixth Avenue staple L’Asie Fusion Bistro (303-318-0102) blends flavors from throughout the Pacific with traditional French cooking techniques for a just-left-of-center Izakaya Den’s Sweet & Sour Pork Tenderloin take on traditional fare.
