Los Angeles, CA
From its sparkling Westside shoreline to the gentrified funkiness of Silver Lake, Los Angeles has as much collective personality as the constellation of big-screen luminaries who make the city their home. With more than 88 unique municipalities sharing its massive footprint, the City of Angels is so much more than Hollywood’s hometown—and for the savvy traveler, it can be a perfectly blended cocktail of culture, glitz and kitsch. Our local expert teams up with best-selling author Michael Connelly to lead the way.
The Lowdown
Blowing Off Steam: If you love a delicious, snooty coffee and pastry—served by people appropriately aware of how good their coffee is—hit Caffe Luxxe on Montana Avenue in Santa Monica.
Walk in the Park: Skip the crowds and drive to Topanga State Park, where you can have 10,000 acres to yourself. On your way back, stop by Froggie's on Topanga Boulevard for a delicious fish dinner and drinkies on the deck.
Local Legend: Largo at the Coronet is one of the best places in town—or anywhere, really—to see live music. Don't miss the Friday night wizardry of Jon Brion.
Take the Plunge: If you come to LA, you have to dip your toes in the ocean. Venice Beach is an easy fix, but if you're in the mood for a drive, head up PCH to El Matador State Beach in Malibu or to Zuma, just a few miles north, and dive right in.
Thread Count
Take the whole entourage to the Chateau Marmont (323-656-1010)—its intimate Craftsman bungalows, starlet- studded patio bar and unexpectedly tranquil location provide the perfect setting for discrete debauchery. Still basking in the glow of its multi-million-dollar renovation, The London West Hollywood (866-282-4560) features David Collins-designed décor and a slick new Gordon Ramsay restaurant. Catching an event at the Staples Center? Tuck into the Figueroa Hotel (800-421-9092), an opulent Moroccan oasis in the heart of the concrete jungle. The morning after, hit The Original Pantry Café (213-972-9279), just down the street, for a hearty breakfast that's guaranteed to kill your hangover.
Food Fix
Dining in LA is a trip, literally—the city boasts award-winning cuisine from all around the world. La Brea Boulevard flagship Campanile (323-938-1447), best known for its James Beard-acclaimed Italian cuisine, also hosts a grilled cheese night every Thursday. Just steps from Rodeo Drive, Crustacean (310-205-8990) keeps patrons coming back for their posh Vietnamese fusion, including the addictive garlic noodles. If you're shopping on Robertson Boulevard, two tempting choices offer near-guaranteed star sightings: the Newsroom Café (310-652-4444) and The Ivy (310-274-8303). And, despite its prosaic exterior, what happens in the kitchen at Zankou Chicken (310-444-0550) is nothing short of culinary poetry; visit any of the eight area locations for an unforgettable (and totally affordable) Mediterranean feast.
Night Out
LA's bar scene accommodates a wide range of tastes and budgets, from strip mall dives to the perfectly appointed promenades of Beverly Hills. Margaritas are a must in this town, and El Carmen (323-852-1552) has the best selection of artisan agave north of the border. If you're headed downtown, get a bit of perspective at The Standard Hotel's (213-892-8080) über-hip rooftop bar. Try your luck at Area (310-652-2012), which serves up satisfying portions of beachy club style along with regular celebrity encounters. Keep it on the down-low at Jones (323-850-1726), with its darkly sexy interior, quietly cool crowd and, surprisingly, the best apple pie this side of the Mississippi. Even the umbrella-drink crowd has choices in this town—try the wee Tiki-Ti (323-669-9381) in Silver Lake or the Tonga Hut Tiki Lounge (818-769-0708) in North Hollywood.
Don't Miss
Still the quintessential Angeleno evening out, the Hollywood Bowl (323-850-2000) is more about setting than set list—arrive early with a blanket and a gourmet picnic dinner from Clementine (310-552-1080). In the mood to lounge around? Cabaret couple Marty and Elayne continue to hold court at the astoundingly old-school Dresden Room (323-665-4294), where the show-tune sing-alongs really must be seen to be believed. Or, for a provocative glimpse into the secret dark heart of Los Angeles, take an Esotouric Bus Adventure (323-223-2767) through the city's fictional and forensic past; tours include Charles Bukowski's Los Angeles, The Real Black Dahlia and The Birth of Noir: James M. Cain's Southern California Nightmare.
Retail Therapy
Thanks to its sprawling geographic footprint and virtual crazy-quilt of cultures, Los Angeles has spawned so many self-contained neighborhood shopping districts that one need never set foot in a traditional mall. Start on Robertson Boulevard, anchored by trendy Kitson (800-814-8447), spendy Curve (310-360-8008) and a talented supporting cast of hipster hangouts. West Third Street is also worth lingering over, for a long list of reasons—the romantic assemblage of butterflies and baubles at Blanche & Co (323-951-1067), the perfectly curated collection of clothing at Ethel (323-658-8602) and the deli counter at Joan's on Third (323-655-2285), to name just a few. And by all means, make time for Melrose Avenue; just stay west of Fairfax Boulevard, where it-list legends like Jonathan Adler (323-658-8390) and Fred Segal (323-655-3734) hold court.
Stone's Throw
Just 30 minutes south of LA city limits, the city of Long Beach is your point of departure to another time and place: Catalina Island. A scenic 40-minute jaunt aboard the Catalina Express (800-481-3470) will transport you to the island's delightful capital, Avalon, which seduces more than a million travelers every year. Despite reliably gorgeous weather this time of year, October and November are considered the off-season—so you can easily snap up winter rates at the island's swankier lodgings, like the Aurora Hotel & Spa (800-422-6836) and the Hotel Metropole (800-541-8528). Don't miss: snorkeling in Lover's Cove, burgers at Eric's on the Pier (310-510-0894) and cocktails at the Catalina Visitors Country Club (310-510-7404).
On The Scene
Many would argue that the Sunset Strip made rock music what it is today, and there are still faint echoes of greatness in seminal venues like the Whisky A Go Go (310-652-4202) and the Rainbow Bar & Grill (310-278-4232), home of the endless after-party. But if you favor sound over scene, skip hectic Hollywood and head a few miles south, where intimate venues like The Mint (323-954-9400) and Café-Club Fais Do-Do (323-931-4636) stock an endless stable of top established acts, plus the coolest up-and-comers in town. Cultured La Brea Boulevard offers the highest concentration of independent art galleries in town, peppered with cool shops and restaurants for a balanced aesthetic. And, since locals rarely go car-less, LA's subway system is remarkably clean and uncrowded—take the Red Line to Union Station for dinner at Traxx (213-625-1999), then continue to Walt Disney Concert Hall for an evening with the Los Angeles Philharmonic (323-850-2000).
Events - Sept & Oct 2009
One of the biggest annual neighborhood events in the city, this one-day affair features live music, local food vendors and a variety of denizens representing the world-class Venice Beach art community.
Experience the ancient Mexican tradition, Hollywood-style, with meticulously crafted shrines, Aztec blessings, ceremonial dancers and authentic cuisine.
This 9-day global film fest showcases new works by emerging filmmakers as well as the latest efforts from established masters.
